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Central and Western Canada

The Rockies - Banff National Park

August 9, 2012

We realize that ever since we left Tobermory, we've been going at a breakneck pace — way faster than all the transcontinental trains we've watched roll by!

So we park for 3 nights at the Tunnel Mountain campground, just to have time to sort our photos, write for the blog (yes, really), read the "how to be a good homeschool teacher" books from the CNED (the French distance-learning school), plan our schedule and kick off the school year, build the kids a fort, drop by Banff to look (in vain) for hiking boots for the kids, get a bit of connection so we can call all of you (we miss you so much, you who've migrated south in search of sunshine!), do some laundry (hooray for the generator), go grocery shopping, fill up on gas and water, and for Juju to make a new little boyfriend, Liam (another one!) — in short, practically nothing!

Map: Canadian RockiesView larger map

Johnson Canyon

August 10, 2012!
Our first mountaineering hike in the Rocky Mountains! We decide to tackle the Rockies with a beginner's trail, just to warm up our stiff, couch-potato city muscles!
When we get to Johnson Canyon, what do we find... Traffic jams of cars, RVs, buses... So much for a nature walk! Clearly we won't be the only ones on the marked trail! Welcome to Canada's ultra-wild Rockies!
We picnic on the grass next to KIFONS and then off we go. Johnson Canyon is pretty, even if we have to wait in line to enjoy the upper falls.

Promise: next hike, we're going in the morning, super early!

Lake Louise

We've psyched ourselves up. Today is hiking day. 7.5 miles, 1,640 feet of elevation gain, 5 hours of walking (with a picnic break), and the kids — especially Alex — set a breakneck pace!
Alice and Juju even get their picture taken by Americans who can't believe such young kids are making this climb (don't worry, Grandma and Grandpa, it was totally safe).
Up by the glaciers, a group of Chinese tourists applauds Juju, Alex and Alice with very heartfelt "BAVO"s (that's BRAVO with a Chinese accent).

We play it cool, but we're super proud of our little ones. We'll tell them once we're back down!

A magnificent view of Lake Louise and the 6 glaciers (sadly almost all melted), and it does the parents a world of good to get some exercise!
Alex says "I love going on hikes," Alice says "I love walking on the rocks," Juliette says "it's sooo awesome."
A good sign for the days ahead!
Just for fun, I was the only tourist that day (a bit crazy!) who dared to voluntarily dip his ankles, calves, thighs... STOP! into Lake Louise. Nice photo taken by Maggy of the lone man in the lake...
The others who tried a swim weren't quite as thrilled: a group of Chinese tourists in a canoe that they managed to tip over!
Screaming in 36°F water, and hundreds of people in fits of laughter on the shore!

We end our day at the Lake Louise hotel. Juju gets her harp lesson! Alex watches his sister, a little tired.

Moraine Lake

The Routard guide (France's go-to backpacker guidebook) had warned us: "Canoe rental on Moraine Lake: highway robbery!".
At 65 dollars an hour, we can confirm! So the romantic paddle on the water will happen... without us!
Given how fit the kids proved to be yesterday at Lake Louise, we decide to follow up today with a little 4-mile, 2-hour walk.

Code name: Consolation Lakes Trail. Sounds promising!

Rule to follow, It's the LAW: hikers must go in groups of at least 4, sticking close together. Bears and grizzlies, you know!

Peyto Lake

Here again, we make some Asian friends, thanks to the rice salad we're eating on the public benches!
Three blond, blue-eyed kids eating rice... They love it!

And we love this lake!